Tuesday, May 20, 2008

The Ramen Crawl

So, Porthos and I met up with a cast of crazies in the East Village and decided to do a Ramen Crawl - you know, visit three supposedly top notch Ramen Joints, get a bowl at each place and compare. Great times and as usual great food - albeit a wee bit too much. Below are some quick reviews based on our ramen excursion.

FYI - most of the noodles I take the greatest pleasure in are the Italian pastas. So, my tastes definitely lean towards pasta like qualities - al denteness is very important to me. However, I've had complete what the f moments with Taiwanese noodles as well, just haven't had that food-gasmic experience with ramen yet. Any who, on to the reviews...

Ramen Setagaya - Recommended
141 First Ave, New York, NY 10003
nr. 9th St.
212-529-2740

Comments - Shio-Ramen is basically ramen noodles with a salt based broth. This particular broth was complex with hints of seafood and seaweed. The ramen with decent chew in my opinion, but it was slightly undercooked. Pork was tender, but not very flavorful. Much improved from my previous experience.


Le Miu - Not Recommended
107 Avenue A, New York 10009
Btwn 6th & 7th St
Phone: 212-473-3100

Comments - Ordered the Cha Shuu Shio-Ramen here and it was a big letdown compared to Setagaya. The broth here tasted like barely salted water and the pork was super dry. However, the flavor of the pork was more intense here and the noodles had the best texture and flavor of the night. We ordered an uni special for the hell of it and it was decent, but not worth it.


Ippudo - Highly Recommended
65 4th Ave, New York 10003
Btwn 9th & 10th St
Phone: 212-388-0088

Comments - Ordered the Pork Ramen Original - Akamaru Shin - Aji. This was by far the best ramen of the night and a complete what the f moment. The broth was so rich and thick, almost like a porcine porridge. Great, great pork flavor and the pork belly was perfect, just falling apart upon the touch. The noodle was good, but no big wow moment for me - better than Setagaya's but not better than Le Miu's. The best was when you took a break from drinking the soup, the broth actually starts to form a solidified layer...that's some good broth my friend. The only disappointment was the lack of a soft boiled egg to add to the soup...only hard boiled. Ippudo also has great sides as well including the daikon kakuni (root veg) and buta kakuni (pork belly). Can't wait to go back...



Monday, May 19, 2008

Hill Country - Review

Intro
Hill Country - Highly Recommended
30 W 26th St, New York 10010
Btwn 5th & 6th Ave
Phone: 212-255-4544

Met up Porthos and we finally decided to make the trek to Hill Country. The press has been raving about this place, so we decided to see what the fuss was all about. This restaurant is the ultimate dudes on food joint. Great atmosphere, great service (self serve), and great food. Overall, I give the restaurant a 90/100

My Menu

1) Brisket Moist ***
2) Pork Spare Rib *
3) Kreuz Sausage
Jalapeno Cheese **
4)
Kreuz Sausage Regular *
5) Beer Can Game Hen *
6) White Shoepeg Corn Pudding **
7) Hot German Potato Salad *

Rating System
--- What the F - in a bad way
* Good

** Great

*** What the F – in a good way

Dish Comments
1) This dish was a complete what the f moment. Brisket moist in Hill Country-speak means stupidly fatty beef brisket - like 50% fat or more. Reminded me of a great pork belly with an abundance of fat encasing the flavorful meat. The perfect amount of smoke (not overly so) and great beef flavor. I've had beef brisket in the past and it's always been very dry and not that flavorful. This was the best brisket I've ever had and the best bbq'd meat I've ever had in my life. I want one right now!
2) Tasty, but a bit of a letdown after the ridiculousness of the brisket moist. Meat was nice and fatty around the back of the rib, but the winner was the narrow part of the rib. The meat had good flavor there.
3) A very tasty sausage from a famous company in Texas. Crispy casing, juicy juicy filling, and a great porkiness. The jalapeno really complemented the fatty meat and woke up the flavors a lot - made it porkier.

4) Same comments as the jalapeno sausage minus the jalapeno. Because of the lack of jalapeno, the porkiness wasn't as pronounced to me. Still a juicy flavorful sausage.
5) Game Hen cooked with a beer which made the meat nice and moist (even the breast). The flavor of the hen was pleasantly sour which I assume is from the beer as well. Again, perfect smoke that enhances the flavor of the meat without overpowering it.
6) Awesome corn pudding. Sweet fresh corn that had a nice soufflé'd, custardy texture.
7) Warmed Potato Salad with a mustard/mayo sauce that was covered in mounds of bacon. Not great, but a good side.

Overall Restaurant Experience (90/100)

  • Food 9.0/10 – I've been to KC, South Carolina, and Tulsa for some delicious bbq and this definitely tops the list.
  • Service 9.0/10 – I like to call this place "Texas Dim Sum Buffet" There are 3 stations that you can navigate to - meats, sides, drinks/desserts. You hand each station a card, they mark it and hand it back to you like dim sum. The best part is they sell the meat by the pound. So you can start with small samples (oh let's say 5 pounds of brisket moist) and go back for more if you like. You pick your own seat and everything is already there for you - paper towels (perfect for wiping your hands and face), bbq sauce, utensils and a salt/pepper combo. This place is heaven since you don't have to wait for your food, just get it yourself.
  • Atmosphere 9.0/10 – When you first walk in, it feels like you're entering a fun house for meats. There's an attendant handing out your meal ticket and you enter through the right hand side (the left side is for exiting). Upon entering it looks like a social club or something since it's so large and everything has a construction type feel - wood tables, concrete floors, brick walls. The other thing you'll immediately be bombarded with is the country music. Now, I'm not a country music fan, but it really gets you in the mood to eat bbq. Just a great atmosphere for dudes to be loud and feast on food. We got there at 12:30pm on a Saturday and it was half empty (place is huge though).
  • Price 8.0/10 – About $40 a head for all the food that we had including tip, beers, and Texas sweet tea. Pricey for lunch, but after you have a piece of that brisket moist - you won't care either.
Closing Comments
Again, the best BBQ that I've ever had. The whole time we had a ridiculous grin on our face since everything about this place was perfect for us dudes. There's even a sink near the exit with a foot pedal that operates the faucet - you can wash your hands without touching any faucet handles...BRILLIANT! Still need to visit the other BBQ joints in the city - aka Rub, Dinosaur, and Daisy May. Been to Blue Smoke and Virgil's and they can't touch this place.

Hill Country part II

Alrighty...
As Aramis posted up top, this was completely the highlight of the weekend.
Hill Country is brilliant in so many ways.

Even before talking about the beef brisket, the drinks have to be documented.
It's not cool enough that they serve a ton of Boylan's Soda, they also import Mexican Coca-Cola.
It completely tastes better because it's sweetened with real cane sugar and not the High Fructose Corn Syrup which is in every sweetened American product these days.
**Conspiracy**
[The US (yah, that's right, the whole country) switched to HFCS in the 80's to cut costs...]
In addition, the Texas Iced Tea was spectacular as well.
The sweetness and slight minty flavor of the tea really compliments smokey, fatty bbq.
Was this "new world dim sum"?
And finally, I'm going to leave the Lonestar Beer alone and not pick on it.
Let's just put it this way, some things are just better untouched.

Now, onto the Meats and Sides.
The Moist Beef Brisket was somewhat of a religious experience for me.I took one bite and knew something fantastic just happened to Aramis and I.
The meat was so tender, beefy, and had the perfect amount of smoke.
I mean it was PERFECT. You really can't ask for a better cooked bbq brisket.
The rest of the items were generally very good.

Note worthies :
The Corn Pudding and the Kreuz Sausages.

Sunday, May 18, 2008

Krispy Kreme Kraze in Japan - How Long?


Some of you might know that Krispy Kreme donuts recently opened in Japan. A line to get in snaked around the front. But that's not all. Another line of people formed on the other side of the building just to get into the line in the front. I took this photo in Shinjuku, Tokyo during a weekend last winter. Like in many cities, people in Tokyo love to bandwagon on crazes. How long will the Krispy Kreme Kraze last in Japan? Blogger Rising Sun of Nihon has a lively debate going here. Can Krispy Kreme compete with Mr. Donut?

Papaya King Confession



OK, one other place I try to visit each week is the great Papaya King at the original location on 86th Street and 3rd Avenue (since 1932). I usually get the No. 1 combo: two hot dogs with sauerkraut ("with") and a drink--usually the papaya or mango drink. This weekend, I went a bit unorthodox. The woman in front of me ordered a mix of the strawberry and banana drinks, so I decided to try that. Notice that I only put mustard on the dogs. Some people claim that ketchup on dogs are for kids only, and I agree. Blogger Dancing Blue Seal has a nice review of the King here. Seal points out the dogs' snappy casings at the Papaya King. Here is a wonderful description of Papaya King from their website:

Today, say the words "Papaya King" to a New Yorker and hot dogs and fruit drinks will instantly come to mind. Papaya King has been called by Zagat the "best, cheapest (stand-up) lunch in the city", and a "must visit" highlight of any trip to New York City. Critic Ed Levine of New York Eats calls it the "best hot dog in the world." Over the years, Papaya King has become a tradition with local residents, tourists, political and business luminaries, and the jet set of New York society. Papaya King represents the ultimate in quick dining -- stand-up fare and ready-made juice drinks enjoyed as you rub elbows with all walks of people. Papaya King stands for inexpensive fast food made from all-natural products and the store provides a nostalgic visit to old New York.

Chef Seki at Sushi Seki

Friday, May 16, 2008

$ Cha-ching $

I caught a video on the front page of Yahoo.com. It talks about food prices having their biggest jump in 18 years. 61% of restaurants say they have less clients than a year ago. To try not to lose as much, many places have been secretly tinkering with our orders. Such examples mentioned in this video are:

- Replacing the grouper you ordered with catfish or a cheaper fish
- Giving you a an 8 oz. cut instead of the 10 oz. you ordered and filling your plate with veggies
- Topping pizza with cheaper cheeses that spread better
- Using smaller plates to make your meal appear larger
- Having lighter silverware so your food seems heavier
- Creating menu makeovers to make you want more expensive items
- Charging for once-free items like bread & butter before your meal

Here is that video:

http://cosmos.bcst.yahoo.com/up/player/popup/?cl=7838111

Redd

Redd Restaurant - Highly Recommended
6480 Washington Street
Yountville CA 94599
Phone 707 944.2222
Fax 707 945.0447

Hands down the best meal I had in Napa.
Through out the night, we were served perfectly crafted dishes one after the other.

Once again, the reservationist said "Business Casual" but this time I was prepared.
There were only 2 people in the dining room sporting shorts and flip flops but it didn't phase me anymore.
The food spoke for itself and I was in the zone.



Tuna/Hamachi Tartare in a Mustard Vinegrette and Popcorn Rice ***
Marinaded Hamachi Sashimi over Seaweed Salad and Shortgrain Rice *
Seafood Medley with Chorizo and Scallop Foam Sauce **
Pan Seared Scallop with Cauliflower Flourettes and Pomme Choufleur ***
Slow Cooked Pork Belly with Pomme Puree **
Duck Duo, with Sugar Peas and Pomme Puree **
Local Raised Beef Duo (Braised Short Rib and Pan Seared Tri-Tip)
with roasted veggies and sweet potato puree ***
Lamb Duo, Rack and Tenderloin **
Peanut Butter/Milk Gianduja, Peanut Honeycomb Parfait **
Citrus Tasting : Meyer Lemon Cake, Yuzu Float, Grapefruit S'more **
Chocolate Truffles in Confectioner's Sugar *

Thursday, May 15, 2008

Suburban Chili Dog

No shirt stain after this Chili Dog!

Many times, when I'm on the run and have no more than 15 minutes between appointments, I look for a Gray's Papaya (or of the like) and scarf down the "recession special".
That's just one more perk in urban (NYC) life, really good hot dogs in every district of the city.
Well the other day, I was back in the burbs, and I stopped by a local family owned grocery store(Delicious Orchards-in Colts Neck, NJ) and found that they serve chili dogs on the outside patio.
The picture above is an all beef frank with pretty decent chili spooned on top. The bun was perfectly split open and cradled the dog and chili, giving way to minimal spillage. I couldn't believe it. It was a clean eating experience. Something you never see when you balance your two dogs and papaya juice at Gray's all while standing up.

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Julia's

To be frank, I was expecting a little bit more.
Keep in mind, Julia's at Copia is considered one of top dining destinations in Napa.
After all, it bears the great "Julia Childs" name.
So after Aramis's favorable visit last year, I was convinced I had to go to Julia's.
To my dismay, the food wasn't overly impressive, and everything else (the Decor, Atmosphere and Service) was just average.

For one, I was not prepared for the Californian Dress-code.
Apparently "Business Casual" means something completely different over there in California.
I was shocked to see men in t-shirts and shorts with flip flops dining next to my table.
In addition, this was the most expensive ($100 a head) tasting menu I had during my stay in Napa.
It just didn't make sense.
(I'm so not going back)

I chose the Chef's Tasting Menu, and for the most part it was decent.
But as always, when there's expectations, I am often left scratching my head perplexed by the chef's decisions.
One dish in particular was the "Tuna Sashimi" course served on a coffee coaster. On a coaster! Are you serious?
In addition, it was a poorly "chopped" piece of Tuna with a dab of wasabi and half a tea spoon of tamari drizzled on top. Hardly presentation fit for a fine dining establishment.



Gougeres
Amuse Bouche
Tuna Sashimi
Pan Seared Scallop with Sweetbreads **
Pan Seared Sonoma Foie Gras with Strawberry Confit *
Pan Seared Buttered Local White Fish
Niman Ranch Hanger Steak
Palate Cleanser - Blood Orange Juice with Mint
Pavlova
Petite Fours

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Mushroom Recipe Contest

Received an email from a viewer about a mushroom recipe contest they are hosting. It's late notice, but if you're interested the link is listed below. The winner gets 2 pounds of fresh wild morels, so do your thang and get your mushroom groove on. Recipes are due this Friday, May 16th...

http://marxfood.com/recipe-contest/

Chicago is cool again!

A letter by Ariane Daguin (President of D'Artagnan) to fellow supporters of Foie Gras.

Dear Friend of Foie Gras,
There will be much rejoicing today, as chefs in all the best restaurants of the country celebrate the repeal of the foie gras ban in Chicago.
Passing 37-6, the repeal of the ban is a 21st century equivalent to the repeal on Prohibition! It stands for freedom of choice, common sense, truth and most importantly, freedom to eat!!
We commend the Chicago City Council for voting on this fair and square, unlike the clandestine maneuver of April 2006, when the ban was buried in an unread collection of routine legal matters.
The animal rights extremists have attempted to repeat their success in Chicago in other states and cities in the Land of the Free. They petitioned and protested, but
NY, NJ, CT, IL, MI, HI, MA, MD, and Philadelphia have resisted their efforts!! Feel free to eat foie gras in any of these places!
Today, please raise a glass with us...and a plate of foie gras... to celebrate the victory of family farmers who work hard to give us wholesome foods, and to freedom of choice on our menus.

Vive le foie gras!!

Ariane Daguin
D'Artagnan Inc.
280 Wilson Avenue
Newark NJ 07105
www.dartagnan.com

Japan's Beverage Market



















I once heard that products are developed differently in Japan than they are in the United States. In the United States, the development of a product will go through extensive research and planning before hitting the market. A beverage company will tweak its product, using surveys, interviews, tastings, etc. U.S. companies want a sure thing before they introduce their products to the market. It reminds me of the U.S. political process.

In Japan, by contrast, it is said that companies are more willing to throw various ideas out into the market with little research and see what sticks. As a result you may get a lot of flops and weird ideas. But that makes the market much more interesting. Aloe yogurt comes to mind. Here is a poplar commercial with Chiaki Kuriyama on YouTube.

People sometimes point to the proliferation of convenience stores as part of the homogenization of culture in a globalized economy. I disagree. Each time I visit a new country, I try to take a stroll through their convenience stores to see what's different.

The Japanese are proud of their convenience stores (konbini). Like many things in Japan, it has been made into an art. Check out this site devoted to konbini diversity. 7-Eleven was acquired by a Japanese company in the early 1990s. You can get oden in the winter and nikuman mostly year round (this site shows nikuman from various konbini).

I took this photo while in Japan recently of the distinct drink isle in the back of a Japanese convenience store. It will be familiar to anyone who has visited Japan. If I could make one suggestion to American drink makers: Check out Japan's cold tea selections (without sugar).

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Mother's Day 2008

Had the folks over for Mother's Day this year and I had two things in mind Jamaican jerked fish and some type of puree. Both concoctions came out great and I was pretty happy with the rest of the menu. Although portions in the picture were smaller, that was just for presentation - everyone requested seconds (and thirds) and I gladly obliged..something you can't get at a place like French Laundry :)

Menu
1) Amuse - Torched O-toro, Jalapeño, and Yuzu
2) Seared Wagyu Ribeye, Edamame Puree, Enoki, and Miso Butter Sauce
3) Jamaican Jerked Chilean Sea Bass, Mache, and Fruit Salsa
4) Assorted Mochi
**Note as usual, all measurements are estimates since I don't keep track of precise measurements. Just taste, re-adjust and repeat until it comes out right.

Torched O-toro, Jalapeno, and Yuzu
Flipping through some of my cookbooks for plating inspiration and pulled this dish out from the Nobu
cookbook. Haven't pulled a dish directly from a cookbook in a long time and it unsurprisingly came out great. Fatty o-toro has an amazing texture and when you torch it, it gets a nice smoky flavor. It's cut nicely with the jalapeno and sour Yuzu soy sauce.

Ingredients

O-toro
1 Jalapeno thinly sliced
Yuzu Soy Sauce

1) Torch the block of o-toro until caramelized (around 5-10 seconds). If you don't have a torch, you can sear the toro quickly over high heat. The key is to make sure almost all of the toro is still raw - only getting slight caramelization.

2) Cut thin slices of toro (I need a sushi knife), add one slice of jalapeno on each toro slice, and drizzle the yuzu soy sauce over top.


Seared Wagyu Ribeye, Edamame Puree, Enoki, and Miso Butter Sauce
A great combination of textures and flavors. Tender beef, velvety edamame puree, and pleasantly chewy enoki. The butter sauce kicks ars and the puree has a surprisingl
y intense edamame flavor. Plate in the picture was a wedding gift from my buddy Chu...thanks dude.

Ingredients

Wagyu Ribeye (and American Ribeye for seconds)
1 Pack Enoki Mushrooms cut into bite size pieces
2 Tblsp Butter
1.5 Tblsp Miso Paste
1/3 cup Sake
Splash Mirin
Splash Soy Sauce
4 cups Frozen Cooked Edamame (high quality is very important)
1 small white potato
1/4 Cup Cream
1 garlic clove crushed
Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1) To make the enoki butter sauce - add 1 tablespoon butter to a saucepan and cook until it's completely liquid over low heat
2) Add enoki, sake, mirin, and soy sauce to a sauce pan and cook for 8 minutes until the enokis are soft. Add Miso paste during the last 2 minutes and make sure it dissolves.
3) Strain the enokis, reserve the liquid, and set aside. Add the liquid back to the saucepan and simmer over low heat. Remember to taste and adjust if necessary. Reduce until it's a syrupy consistency.
4) To make the edamame puree (there is definitely a better way, but this is the first time I made a puree so these are the steps I took) - Shell about 4 cups of cooked edamame. Make sure to taste them raw. If they have good flavor and good color raw, then it'll be good in the puree. Puree the edamame in a food processor.
5) Boil a potato (don't forget to salt the water), cut it up, and add to the food processor.
6) Add 1/2 of the cream to the processor and puree. Now this is the step that took fo'eva. I kept adding the salted potato boiling water (maybe 1 cup?) until it looked relatively smooth. Then, I emptied
the puree into a saucepan and cooked it with 1 tablespoon butter over low heat. The puree wasn't as velvety as I liked, so I added the mixture back to the processor pureed again with more water - then added the puree back to the pan with some cream. Voila...insanely velvety pureed edamame. Btw - I looked up how they made pomme puree at French Laundry intense...tami, chinois and repeat.
7) Ok. Final steps. Sear the ribeye with sea salt, pepper, and olive oil. Since it's wagyu, I got a nice crust on one side (5 minutes) and barely cooked the other side so it was rare to medium rare.
8) To plate, add the edamame puree on the bottom, top with thinly sliced beef, enoki and drizzle with the sauce. Btw - we ate multiple portions
since this was great and surpisngly the American ribeye had a much beefer taste than the wagyu I bought. Not sure if this is because it was a bigger cut or not, but I was quite surprised. The Wagyu was obviously 10x more tender than the American ribeye.


Jamaican Jerked Chilean Sea Bass, Mache, and Fruit Salsa
Spicy and tender jerk sea bass that's cut by the sweet, sour, and spicy fruit salsa. I forgot how fatty and unctuous Chilean sea bass was - great fish to use for this dish. This plate was a wedding gift from Porthos...


Ingredients

Chilean Sea Bass
2 cups Grandpa Eddie's Jerk Sauce
1 Pineapple diced
2 Mango diced
1 Red Pepper diced
1/2 Red Onion diced
2 ears of corn
1 Avocado diced
1/4 cup Honey
2 Limes
Mache (a nutty salad leaf)
Extra Virgin Olive oil
Yellow Pepper Sauce

1) Marinate sea bass in the jerk sauce for 4 hours.
2) Combine 1/2 the pineapple, 1/2 the mango, honey, lime, olive oil, pepper sauce, and kosher salt. Taste. Should be slightly sweet, sour, and spicy. I know, I know...this is such a Flay wannabe sauce, but it does taste good. Set the fruit sauce aside.
3) Pre-heat convection oven to 375. When the oven is ready, remove the excess jerk marinade from the sea bass and place the fish in the oven. After 8 minutes turn off the oven - the fish can finish in the warmed oven. Check after another 5 minutes - should be super fatty, tender, and cooked through. If you don't have a convection oven, cook maybe 12-15 minutes total but check after 10 minutes to see how much further it needs to cook.
4) Toss the Mache, Onion, Red Pepper, Pineapple, Mango, Avocado, Corn and the sauce. Again, remember to lightly toss the mache in a minimal amount of fruit sauce - don't drench the leaves. The mache should still have some crunch to it.
5) To plate, add the sea bass then a small amount of the mache on top. Add extra jerk sauce and fruit sauce on the plate for some extra flavors.


Assorted Mochi
I didn't make these since I needed to save some time. These kicked ars though. The mochi to the left was one wrapped in an oak leaf, the middle was the green tea mochi, and the one to the right was a mochi stuffed with chestnut. They all had a red bean filling...great stuff. Chestnut was my favorite...

Monday, May 12, 2008

Paul's Place

Paul's Place - Recommended (at least once)
131 2nd Ave
New York, NY 10003-8331
Phone: (212) 529-3033

If you're in the area, (let's say an 8 block radius) I'd recommend swinging by to Paul's and ordering up a burger.
Like many other establishments, they claim to serve the best burger in the city.
I disagree with "best", but it's a very decent burger.

Here's what I experienced with the Burger :
Flavor - Medium to medium low beefy flavor.
Juiciness - Not very juicy either.
Texture - Very soft. Almost to the point where I suspect egg was added. But no one is that ballzy to flirt with salmonella poisoning so it was probably just water.











On the other hand, the fries were pretty good.
Chili Cheese Fries
Sweet Potato Fries **

Tamarind Fix





















OK, I have to admit that I need to visit Tamarind, a wonderful little Indian restaurant in the Upper East Side (on 3rd Avenue between 94th and 95th Streets) in New York City, just about every week for my meditative dining experience. Don't confuse this modest place with the fancier Tamarind on 22nd Street.

I have been going to the one in the Upper East regularly for about two years. It is a reason we stay in the neighborhood. One of their most interesting dishes is chicken or lamb with their own mango sauce (pictured here). They are proud to say they have invented this particular take on this sauce. It is fresh and zingy with a mild spicy warmth. Every time I order it, it tastes better than I remembered. So I keep getting it.

Ask for Raj.

Greenwich Grill

Greenwich Grill
428 Greenwich Street (bet.Vestry&Laight)
New York
, NY 10013

Yet another Japanese company coming overseas capitalizing in the NYC market.
With a cozy feel to the bar in the front, a neat dining room in the back, and a very Japanese sushi counter aesthetic downstairs, this place is sure to impress the Tribeca locals.

I have yet to try their main dining room, but their sushi downstairs is pretty good.
Some items were "very good" and some were just "ok", but I'm pretty sure, I'll be back to give it another try.

The Italian menu upstairs offers dishes with a Japanese twist... Like something you would find in Japan. Not to be confused with fusion cuisine which is a complete different style of food all together.

Sunday, May 11, 2008

Friday, May 9, 2008

Salute to 31 Flavors

Great story of a great American past time. 

by NY Times Online

Irvine Robbins, who with his brother-in-law, Burton Baskin, started the Baskin-Robbins chain of ice cream stores — together concocting quirky flavor combinations with names like Daiquiri Ice, Pink Bubblegum and Here Comes the Fudge — died on Monday near his home in Rancho Mirage, Calif. He was 90.


Irvine Robbins sampled some of his wares in 1976.

He died of natural causes, his daughter Marsha Veit said.

The company name could have been Robbins-Baskin. Although it was Mr. Robbins who opened the first store, at the intersection of Adams and Palmer Streets in Glendale, Calif., on Dec. 7, 1945, and it was three years more before he and Mr. Baskin became partners, they took a carefully familial approach to deciding who would come first in the name of what eventually became a vast international enterprise. They flipped a coin.

"They worked closely on everything," Ms. Veit said. "They would come up with ideas for flavors based on what was happening at the time, like Cocoa a Go-Go, when go-go dancers were popular. They would sit in the kitchen tasting, making sure the best ingredients were used."

The company's famous "31 flavors" (essentially one for each day of the month, but actually 34 when chocolate, vanilla and strawberry were included) have varied, numbering more than 1,000 over the years, according to its Web site. They include Nuts to You, Baseball Nut, Rocky Road, Candi-date, Cafe Olé, Huckleberry Finn, chocolate cheesecake, pineapple coconut and Mr. Robbins's personal favorite, Jamoca almond fudge.

One day in 1964, Ms. Veit said, he received a phone call from a reporter for The New York Post, asking what flavor Baskin-Robbins was planning to introduce to celebrate the Beatles' arrival for their appearance on Ed Sullivan's television show. Caught unaware, he came up with Beatlenut, and then scrambled to find an unnamed flavor with nuts in it to match. Two days later, it was in all the company's stores. By then, there were about 650 Baskin-Robbins stores nationwide.

In a 1976 interview in The New York Times, in which he said he ate three or four scoops a day, Mr. Robbins said that Americans had become adventurous in their ice cream choices. "They're not embarrassed to ask for some of these wild flavors," he said. "I think we've had a little bit to do with making it more acceptable."

At the time, Mr. Robbins was still chairman of Baskin-Robbins, although the company had been sold to United Fruit in 1967, the year Mr. Baskin died. When Mr. Robbins retired in 1978, the chain had more than 1,600 stores in the United States, Canada, Japan and Belgium. Baskin-Robbins, along with Dunkin' Donuts, is now part of Dunkin' Brands, with 5,800 stores in 34 countries.

"We were in the franchising business before the word was popular," Mr. Robbins said.

Born in Winnipeg, Manitoba, on Dec. 6, 1917, Mr. Robbins was the son of Aaron and Goldie Chmelnitsky Robbins, immigrants from Poland and Russia, respectively. When Mr. Robbins was a child, the family moved to Tacoma, Wash., where his father became a partner in a dairy.

As a teenager, Mr. Robbins worked at the retail store connected to the dairy where, among other products, ice cream was sold at a nickel a cone — "a pretty big one, too," he said. He soon realized that he could double or triple sales with playful labeling: "Super Banana Treat" replaced a sign that said "three scoops of ice cream, a slice of banana, two kinds of toppings."

"I got the idea that the way to sell ice cream was not through a grocery store but through a specialty store," he said.

After Mr. Robbins graduated from the University of Washington in 1939 and served in the Army in World War II, he was able to test that idea. He cashed in an insurance policy his father had given him as a bar mitzvah present and used the $6,000 to open his first store.

By 1953, the partners sold the eight stores they owned to the managers and began making far more money producing ice cream at a plant in Burbank, Calif. An advertising agency designed the Baskin-Robbins logo, the chocolate-and-cherry-dotted signs and the "31 flavors" concept.

Mr. Robbins married Irma Gevurtz in 1942. Besides his wife and his daughter Marsha, of Mount Kisco, N.Y., he is survived by another daughter, Erin Robbins of Grass Valley, Calif.; a son John, of Soquel, Calif.; two sisters, Shirley Familian, who was Mr. Baskin's wife, and Elka Weiner, both of Los Angeles; five grandchildren; and four great-grandchildren.

Ice cream never melted from Mr. Robbins's mind. When the family lived in Encino, Calif., the house had a soda fountain inside and a swimming pool outside shaped like an ice cream cone. After the company was sold in 1967, Mr. and Mrs. Robbins rented an apartment in Balboa at Newport Beach, to be near the boat they had bought and christened The 32d Flavor.

NY City Food Citations

Over something as silly as not listing the calories next to the price.
*by NY Times Online

City health inspectors began issuing violation notices on Monday to restaurants that did not have calorie counts posted beside the prices on their menu boards.

By day's end, five restaurants had been cited, the health department said. They were Dunkin' Donuts at 445 Park Avenue South, at East 30th Street; McDonald's at 1560 Broadway, at West 46th Street; Popeye's, at 321 West 125th Street, between Frederick Douglass Boulevard and St. Nicholas Avenue; Sbarro at 22 West 34th Street, next to the Empire State Building; and TGI Friday's at 677 Lexington Avenue, at East 56th Street.

But the citations were little more than warnings. They carried no fines, because a federal judge had said the city could not impose fines until mid-July.

And failing to post calorie counts will not affect whether a restaurant passes or fails its regular food safety inspection, even after the fines begin. The calorie-count violation is separate from the things inspectors always look for: whether food is cooked or stored at the right temperature, whether the ice maker is clean, whether workers are wearing hats or hair nets, for example.

Still, the form that inspectors issued to the restaurants that did not have calorie counts posted sounded serious. It said the health department "expects that the conditions will be addressed promptly." The form cautioned that "any recurrence of these conditions could result in further action being taken."

Adding calorie counts to the list of items that inspectors look for was the latest twist in the health department's push to put the counts in more than 2,000 restaurants, or about 10 percent of all restaurants in the city. The postings are required only in restaurants with more than 15 outlets nationwide, and the rules were supposed to take effect last month. But they were delayed while the New York State Restaurant Association took the city to court.

Judge Richard J. Holwell of United States District Court in Manhattan ruled against the restaurant association, and when the association took the case to a federal appeals court, Judge Holwell refused to delay the rules beyond Monday, though he told the city not to begin levying fines until mid-July. The fines will range from $200 to $2,000.

Some of the restaurant chains that would be covered by the regulations did not wait for the case to work its way through the appeals process — they posted the calorie counts anyway. Among them are Starbucks, Subway, Quiznos, Chipotle and Jamba Juice.

The health department said that Monday was the first day inspectors had cited restaurants that did not have calorie counts posted on menu boards. But Chuck Hunt, a spokesman for the restaurant association, said he had heard of a restaurant that had been called on the carpet last week, even though it had posted the calorie counts. He would not name the restaurant.

"Two different inspectors came on two different occasions and had two different approaches to how they weren't doing it right," he said. "There's undoubtedly going to be inconsistency in how they intend to enforce this."

He said that one inspector said the calorie counts were "not in bold-enough type."

"This is the kind of stuff that's just going to drive people crazy," Mr. Hunt said.

Jessica Scaperotti, a spokeswoman for the health department, said the city wanted to "work with the food establishments to answer their questions and make sure that everyone is compliant" before any fines were levied.

On Monday, one restaurant inspector, Corey Williams, issued calorie-count violation notices to three restaurants: the Dunkin' Donuts, McDonald's and Sbarro.

"This is pass-fail," he said as he pulled out a pocket-size digital camera and photographed the menu board at the Dunkin' Donuts. "It does not contribute to points."

The manager, Paul Rivera, said the calorie counts were coming.

Some were already there, though not in a form that was acceptable to Mr. Williams. A small sign on the counter said "80 calories or less in a small." It also said, "Order sugar substitute & skim milk for lots of flavor, and no fat." Another sign advertising a 99-cent special on coffee with an egg-and-cheese breakfast sandwich said the coffee had 25 calories and the sandwich, 280. The sign urged customers to add hash browns for another 99 cents. Doing so would add 180 calories, according to the sign.

But Mr. Rivera said that by June, "all the signs will change for calories."

Mr. Williams printed out the violation notice, using his laptop computer and a printer he carries in his backpack. He printed out a separate notice that cited the restaurant for violations totaling 11 points. Seven were for having boxes of food stacked on the floor in the walk-in freezer.

Mr. Williams pulled out his camera again at the McDonald's, which had no calorie counts on the menu boards. There, he issued violations totaling 57 points, and printed a form about the calorie counts.

At the Sbarro, he issued violations totaling 23 points along with the calorie-count notice.