Tuesday, January 6, 2009

On the Line

Received the spectacular book On the Line from Le Bernardin's Eric Ripert for Xmas. This book goes through the history of Le Bernardin as well as the ins and outs of the entire restaurant in incredible detail. Kinda like the chapter "Life of Bryan" from Kitchen Confidential, but in more detail and showcasing beautiful pictures and recipes - every single recipe is accompanied by a picture which is captured on a whole page...pretty rare for a cookbook.

It truly shows why Le Berardin is one of the best restaurants in NY - from the management skills used to the actual people (and their history) that make Le Bernardin what it is today. Highly recommended and without question the best restaurant book I've ever owned - better than French Laundry's book in my opine.

Interesting topics include:
  • Le Bernardin originally opened in France, then the Le Coze's (owners) expanded to Atlanta and Miami with plans for Charlotte and Vegas. When Ripert took over, they closed everything down except the NY branch.
  • Sous chefs are part of the creative process and present new dishes to Ripert and the chef de cuisine every day - odd I assume for most kitchens. They actually have a markerboard and a conference room to discuss new dishes. My favorite dish at Le Bernardin escloar poached in olive oil was created by a sous chef - recipe is in the book too.
  • Saucier uses the following items per day as a base 10 pounds shallots, 5 pounds garlic, 10 pounds ginger, 30 pounds butter
  • At least Ripert or Maguy (owner) have to be there for every dinner service
  • Ripert still tastes every single sauce before service, even though he's no longer running the pass
  • Sad, but the reason for the book's creation is Ripert wanted to document the restaurant since their lease runs out in 2010 and from Ripert's tone in the book, it seems they may not be able to re-up. He's mentioned if that's the case they will not move the restaurant to another location, so make Le Bernardin on your list of restaurants to visit for 2009...

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