San Sebastian

After my most excellent adventure in Barcelona, we traveled to San Sebastian - a city that has more Michelin multi-starred restaurants per square kilometer than anywhere else in the world. While I flew to San Sebastian for the high-end food, I fell in love with the pintxo bar scene instead.

Picture this my fellow dudes and dudettes - old school narrow cobble stoned streets with about 10+ pintxo bars on every single block - have to be at least 80 in town. People basically pop into each pintxo joint, grab some drinks and quick eats, then repeat all night long. Think of it like a weird hodge podge of drunken musical chairs with an all you can eat buffet type of feeling. The kicker is that the sidra and wines are about 1 euro and each pintxo/tapas plate is around 2-3 euros each. What you'll see is either items skewered with a toothpick (pintxo), stuff on top of bread (montadito), or small plates of cooked food (I think tapa?). Phenomenal deal and great times...

I'll explain the etiquette as well, since we did not know what to do at first. Most places have plates of food laid out for you. Ask for a plate and start picking. There's an honor system of how much you eat, but they still know...always watching, even if they have their back to you. It was rare but there was occasionally a place that asked you what you ate, so make sure you pay attention. Also, try to get food from plates that come out more recently and avoid plates that sit out there for a long time with no one eating. The final thing I can say is "don't blow your load" eating 20+ items. Sample like 2-3 bites and bounce...if the one you liked best was 3-4 pintxo bars ago, go back! You're an adult and you deserve it ;)

Any who, since we visited about 20+ places, I'll just list out the places that were great and the places that sucked. Btw - although it was hella fun, you do see a lot of the same stuff which can get old if you stay more than 2-3 days...one man can only take so much fake crab, mayo, tuna, anchovy, sardines, and pepper combos. Also another annoying note, be prepared for the smokers since they're allowed at most of the tapas bars...some places like Alona Berri ban the smokers though.

Alona Berri - Highly Recommended
Bermingham 24, 20001, Donostia-San Sebastian, Spain‎
Phone: +34 943 290 818‎
Comments - The most interesting of the pintxo joints although off the main section (old town district). Really playing with textures and flavors - definitely more of the sweet and sometimes sour flavors. Pretty delicious stuff, but come here for the hot food which really rock. He's famous for his cooked uni cream and it's pretty delicious, but his beef cheek was spectacular.

Bar Bergara Gros - Highly Recommended
C/ General Arteche / Artetze Jeneralaren Kalea 8, 20002
Donostia-San Sebastian, Spain‎
Phone: +34 943 275 026‎
Comments - We ended up finding this place through the recommendation of a cab driver (Alona Berri was closed for our 2nd attempt). This place is definitely more of a locals joint and it is the best example of the classic pintxo/tapas in my opinion. This wasn't playful, inventive food like Alona Berri, but just solid representations of the pintxo/tapas. Example - loads of places did the tuna mayo combo, but the ones at Bar Bergara were head and shoulders about everyone else. Every dish was like that here...great stuff.

Irutuxlo - Recommended
C/ Puerto / Portu Kalea 9, 20003, Donostia-San Sebastian, Spain‎
Phone: +34 943 426 208‎
Comments - Came here for the uni which was pretty sub par after trying Alona Berri's. What was spectacular was the delicious rice and foie gras dish. I would say it's basically like a well done mushroom risotto topped with solid foie gras.



Astelena - Highly Recommended
C/ Iñigo / Eneko Kalea 1, 20003
Donostia-San Sebastian, Spain‎
Phone: +34 943 425 245‎
Comments - The pintxos here are solid, but what kicks massive ars are the hot plates. Spectacular pieces of duck and amazing savory crispy crepes stuffed with foie gras and mushrooms. This place is constantly packed and the guys behind the bar are difficult to get a hold of though...slight dicks.


Bernardo Etxea - Highly Not Recommended
C/ Puerto 7, 20003
Donostia-San Sebastian, Spain‎
Phone: +34 943 422 055‎
Comments - Our concierge recommended Bernardo Etxea as a high quality sit-down restaurant and man was she was way off. The food was serviceable (not great), but the prices were way out of control for the area (23+ euro per plate). We ordered two entrees and took off immediately afterwards.


Restaurante Ubarrechena - Highly Not Recommended
Address: Can't find it and don't remember where it was...just avoid it if you see it!
Comments - Ashamed as we were, I was sick of pintxos after 3-4 days of day and night eating this same stuff. So, I wanted some paella to break up the monotony. We should have known this was a bad idea as there was a huge sign on the street advertising paella. We didn't learn though and had some very subpar paella. Rice was soupy and no socarrat on the bottom. Seafood was very old looking and quite funky...definitely didn't touch it. Place was packed though, but do not be fooled!


Heladeria La Veneziana - Highly Recommended
Calle de Ramiro Gómez Garibay 4
Donostia-San Sebastian, Spain
Phone: +34 943 422 116‎
Comments - There are plenty of gelato places in San Sebastian, but this was our favorite in terms of texture and flavor - pistachio had huge flavors and great textures. Pretty f'n delicious and better than the excellent Gelateria Boulevard. Funny thing is they recreate flavors of the tiny chocolate snacks like ferrer rocher and thin mints.