Friday, January 11, 2008
Perfection in Midtown
Once again, I ventured into the Four Seasons Hotel and sat down for a meal at L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon. It was Tuesday night, the city was unusually warm for the season, people were talking about the New Hampshire Primaries and I was about to have the meal of my life.
Even before getting there, I knew I was in for a treat. But I kept my cool and tried not to think about it too much during the day. Knowing the chef definitely helps, but it's Robuchon after all. It's not just good, it's perfect.
I have to admit, it took me a few tries to fully understand and appreciate Robuchon's greatness. (and if you are a regular reader on our blog, you will have noticed my metamorphosis under the Robuchon labels)
Perhaps I am not fully aware yet, but every time I go eat at L'Atelier, I learn something about myself and about the meal. I am better able to define my boundaries. My likes and dislikes. And every now and then, a dish is presented to me and I am completely floored by it. My senses buckle, and I am left speechless wondering how on earth does one cook so well?
So with a clear head, I sat down with my guests and immediately the chef came out to greet us.
For those of you who may not be aware, Chef Suga is considered one of the top rising star-chefs in the country and practically a genius in French Cuisine. At the age of 25, he was appointed Executive Chef of L'Atelier Robuchon in Tokyo by Mr. Robuchon himself. Enough said...
What came out of the kitchen that night was one of the most memorable meals of my life. If not #1 of all time. Two other most memorable meals I can remember would have to be, Restaurant Seryna in Tokyo (August of 2000), my first experience with top grade Kobe Beef, and the other being L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon New York on August 7, 2007.
Wine:
Oregon Pinot Noir
Amuse Bouche:
Foie Gras Parfait with Balsamic Fond de Veau Glace and White Foam
Seafood:
King Crab Salad with Couscous
Tuna Carpaccio with Soft Poached Quail Egg
Langostine Carpaccio with Micro Flowers
Scallop in Pasta Shell, Seaweed butter with Black Winter Truffles
Lobster Salad with poached sliced Daikon
Sea Urchin Puree with Black Winter Truffles
Sea Urchin with warm Fennel Broth
Pan Seared Turbot with Artichoke Sauce with Black Winter Truffles
Intermission:
Pasta with Black Winter Truffles
Meats and Game:
Foie Gras Hamburger with homemade Pomme Frites
Sweetbreads with Fresh Laurel
Seared Foie Gras and Gratinated Grapefruit w/Balsamic Fond de Veau Glaze
Foie Gras Stuffed Quail with Pomme Puree and Winter Black Truffles
Wagyu Steak with Pomme Puree
Dessert:
pre-dessert : Caramel Praline Mousse with Vanilla Apple Gelee
Baba Rhum with Okinawa Black Sugar Ice Cream
Chocolate Mousse with crushed Oreo cookies (it was funny. chef was playing a joke on us)
Rice Pudding
Macarons
This meal was the most mind blowing, ethereal, over the top, yet humbling culinary experiences of my life. There was complete unity between the floor and the kitchen... Obvious perfection in execution of each dish, one after the other. Everything was cooked, plated, presented, tasted and smelled amazing.
After the meal, Chef Suga came out to chat with us and of course, to collect feedback.
Needless to say, everything that came out of the kitchen that night was top notch.
It's been roughly 3 days now and I'm still feeling quite euphoric.
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