Wednesday, August 20, 2008

David Chang - Redemption in My Eyes

Like Aquavit, I had no desire to ever go to Ko or any of the Momofuku restaurants. I didn't want to be a hater, but I 100% was. Maybe, it was due to my visit to Momofuku noodle bar when it first opened up which was pretty unimpressive. It was probably also due to the fact that the media hypes up David Chang to disgusting proportions. I mean when the NY Times was reviewing Scarpetta (an Italian restaurant), they mentioned Chang in the friggin review. I equate him to Tom Brady, where the man can do no wrong in the media's eyes. Quite irritating...my final point of contention was his empire building. Like Bobby Flay and Mario, he opened up 3 places in maybe 2-3 years - generally a bad sign since quality control gets difficult. Many of Bobby and Mario's joints that I've visited were pretty terrible once they started opening up way too many restaurants

But, then you taste the food that Chang's restaurant Ko is serving and you're like wow this food is really exciting. The combination of flavors and surprisingly textures are really eye opening. Although reservations are impossible to get at this place, based on our experience at the friends and family lunch it was 100% worth it - this place kicks massive ars. It's also quite fun to eat this very high level of food at such a relaxed environment (they rocked GNR and Bone Thugz). Since Porthos did a great job describing the food, I'll add my 2 cents to my favorite dishes at Ko.

Amuse ** Creme Fraiche & Caviar in a Wonton Crisp, Pork Rillette w/Strawberry Jam on a Corn Crisp
Comments - Reminded of the salmon tartare cornets from French Laundry, but actually more fun to eat since I like the crème fraiche caviar combo more than the crème fraiche salmon tartare combo.

Lobster Salad *** Poached Lobster w/Cantaloupe Gelee, Tomato Water, Green Oil, Little Purple Flowers and Melon Balls
Comments - One of the best lobster dishes I've ever had. Great combos of flavors and textures. I seriously want to start playing gelee's now, since the cantaloupe gelee was sick! Also,
reminded me of how bad the lobster dish I had at Bouley was.

Foie Gras ***
Frozen Foie Gras Torchon w/Riesling Gelee, Lychees and Candied Pine Nuts
Comments - Made me rethink how foie gras can be served and enjoyed. This was insanely good and maybe one of my favorite foie gras dishes of all time.

Meat *** Elysian Farms Rack of Lamb Sous Vide. Goat Cheese Puree, White Watermelon Cubes and Dehydrated Black Olives
Comments - Another memory from French Laundry serving the Elysian Farms lamb, except this time it was way more wild to me. Having a bite of this was like "sex on a plate." Very sensual and animalistic. I think I may like this more than the French Laundry due to the cut having more fat and sinew. I understand the watermelon cubes was supposed to play off the richness of the meat and puree, but I actually didn't like the combo so much. I wanted pure lamb and puree flavor. I liked eating the watermelon at the end though, since it was like a palate cleanser...

I could go on and on about the other dishes, but you get the point. This place uses playful ideas on their dishes with the flavors still kicking massive ars. Eating at the counter, you can see them cook and learn techniques, as they were open to questions. The thing I noticed the most was the head guy was tasting everything multiple times - he must have went through 100 spoons. This quality control obviously came through since almost every dish was phenomenal. My mind is totally changed and I am definitely curious to check out his other joints...

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