Saturday, April 21, 2007

Nouvelle Cuisine (Chinois?)

I just got back from L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon with the wife and another couple. It was a nice relaxing meal but it left me a bit confused. Has "Haute French Cuisine" going Chinese? Japanese flavors were the rage 5 years ago, but it's clear this chef is focussing on Chinese flavors to meld with his French foundation. Chinese 5 spice dusted fish, curry infused crab, chicken stock with shiitake essence and chinese parsley. It's palatable, but I'm just not sure it deserves that much "oo-ing and aw-ing".

As you may know, ever since entering the food world, I have idolized Joel Robuchon like a GreenBay Packer fan idolizes Bret Favre. But today's meal left doubts in my head whether he has spread himself too thin or just gone bonkers with defining what's good.
After retiring at the top of his game, Robuchon returned back to the kitchen with a different wind in his sails.

Following a few consulting gigs and a top notch restaurant in Japan, L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon was born. The concept was derived from the sushi bar. The interaction between a chef and his patron caught the heart of Chef Robuchon and now he has L'Atelier Restaurants in Paris, Tokyo, Macau, Las Vegas and New York.
That's a lot of places to manage, and you can't be everywhere at once.
Perhaps I should not expect the world everytime I eat at a Robuchon joint... but I want to.

But in all fairness, I can definitely brag about their steak. The steak was probably one of the best I've ever had. I've noticed many times that a steak is often cursed because of the natural anatomy of the dish. Because it's basically a hunk of meat that must be consumed with the same utensils, and accompaniments leaving little excitement after the third bite. It's an inevitable marginal diminishing return if you will.
But this cut of beef was so perfectly done. The quality of beef was superb, and the cooking was done just right, that every bite from the first to the last was mind bogglingly delicious. No drop in the flavor meter at all. I have never had a steak that showcased such consistancy. I urge every steak lover to give this a try.
I am totally a steak-guy and this made me smile all day.

No comments: